Bombay!

Just about an hour ago, we stepped of our 24 hour train (direct from the 6.5 hour bus) outside of Mumbai. We downed some spicy daal and a Kingfisher to maintain our energy, and soon we'll be on our way to the home of a new friend we are staying with. I read Shantaram on the train ride, and it was sureally awesome to be reading about the city I was en route to. I'm very excited to be back here for the next 2-ish days. Late sunday/early monday, we fly out to Paris and we'll have to bid fermelenghie to this great country.

Any last requests for silk rugs or gold bangles now being accepted with payment.

jungle beasts

We just crawled out of the jungle. No tigers spotted, but we did see bison, elephants, many birds, a black bear at very close range, and some delicious guavas.

Currently faced with important decisions regarding the next few days and getting to Mumbai, as well as some really confusing roommate/subletter situations for our return home. It should work out, though, seeing as how I can now sleep in the jungle and wrestle black bears.

I am very, very muddy and would like an ayurvedic masage now pls kthx.

Somewhere else

I have now been a certified diver for about 24 hours. I still have the ocean in my ears to prove it.

Hopefully that'll come back out at some point soon.

I made friends with some sea turles, a cuttlefish, a pufferfish, a nurse shark, lots of coral and an eel, though I wouldn't say the eel and I are so much friends as acquantices.

We found the internet on Agatti island. We had to rent bicycles and ride into the village to a high school (currently on holiday). Trying to upgrade our 26 hour train to Mumbai so we can go in a car where we can fit all of our luggage.

anyway: alive, well, still going.

besos.

March of the Elephants

We're in a town outside Thrissur (or Kochi, depending on how you look atit) in Kerala. The pace is slow out here, but the internet is even slower, so I have to make this quick.

In about 20 minutes, our taxi will be here-- we'll go to Kochi airport and fly out to Agatti Island.

Last night we went to a major festival about 25km away. It is an all-night thing, but we only went from about 10pm -1am. There were some extravagently decorated elephants, massive booming fireworks (such that we felt the force of the boom and the heat, though we were a rice paddy away) and frenetic, frantic drums and horns. There were a couple thousand people out there, though I am really bad at estimating crowds, so I will leave it at that. If I had the World's Best Camera, I would've taken the World's Best Photos, alas, I have but some blurry reminders. But pretty!

Really have to run. Thanks for tuning in.

The Promised Hand Sign

We're alive!

We've just stayed the night in Kochi. Bartley is trying to get our host to explain cricket in the other room, and I am hanging out with the awesome lizard crawling up the wall beside me. (S)he is adorable.

Today, we'll take a train to Alleppey and hop on a houseboat that has come recommended from two friends. When the ride is over the next day, we're going to Thissur to see a giant festival that involves 60 elephants. Our host, a native Keralan, was impressed with our plans and told us that the one of the things Keralans love best is elephants.

Time to go find out what Keralan breakfast is!

PLZ BRING WODKA

This is hilarious.

I had an email exchange with my potential diving instructor in the Lakshadweep Islands. They are an energetic team of Germans, and so far they've been very helpful and friendly. Today, she had new advice for me (anonymity preserved out of respect):

"Hi Rachel

We only ask for a certificate of health for people older than 60years. I guess that you are younger, so you don't need one.

Did anybody inform you that there is no alcool available on A----(it is a moslem Island). But it is no problem at all to bring some along. Just don't put is in the handluggage for flying. If you have enough space, can you bring us a bottle of gin or wodka too(no matter what brand).

Thank you!

We are looking forward to welcome you on A----

Warm and sunny regards

B----- "

I'll see what I can do, B, I'll see what I can do...

The View From Here

When You Look at Me with Your Inner Eye

24 hour countdown in Hyderabad.

I can't believe we're already leaving. We've established routines here and left every weekend for adventures, so it is hard to fathom that after this adventure, we won't come back. I've been trying to pack all week, laying my clothes in meaningful piles around my room that are ever so slowly being absorbed into luggage.

For those who are interested, our itinerary for the remainder of our time in India goes something like: Kochi, Alleppey (backwaters, houseboat), Lakshadweep Islands (dive, swim, not believe we are there) Kochi, Periyar (overnight jungle trek), one unblocked day for improvisation, 27-hour train, Mumbai (eat street food, take in Bollywood screening), flight to Paris. Then a few days in sweet Pair-ee (une cafe, un pain au chocolat, du vin...) then New York, New York, New York. The first thing I will do when I get home is kiss my dog for 20 hours. The second thing I will do is eat a slice of pizza. The third thing I will do is miss India terribly.

Internet access should be spotty, if available. When possible, I'll try to throw in some sort of hand sign here to indicate we are alive and well, if mosquito-bitten and dirty. Otherwise, assume everything is fine. If it isn't, you'd hear from my traveler's health insurance. Otherwise, we love you and will see you soon!