“50 Rupees”
“Nayah—25 Rupees”
“45 Rupees, Madam”
“No, no, it’s very close-- I give you 30. Yes?”
And finally, a reticent head wobble. I confirm as I slide into the back seat, “30 Rupees, good? Road 13. Near
I’m starting to sometimes feel a little guilty for bargaining like this with the auto drivers. I’ve heard it said they make about Rs 200-300 a day for their work (usually 12 hours or more of work), and though it may well be above that, even after paying rent on their auto-rickshaw, I know they’re not exactly makin’ bank.
Of course, were I to concede and let them charge me the inflated price, it’s not as if my Rs 20 are going to drag them out of poverty. True, it may buy him some paan or a dosa to make his day a little shorter, and there is nothing wrong with giving someone a small pleasure, but it would also contribute to the idea of Westerners as easy targets, able to be cheated or taken advantage of. Though maybe to an extent, I do deserve to pay extra. Rs 20 just does not mean to me what it does to him, my driver. At most tourist sites, there is a separate charge for Indian tourists and foreigners, with a not insignificant difference (often 5 vs. 100). It is really only the principle that I am fighting—that I, as an American, or American woman at that, should be preyed upon.
I like the idea of “pay what you can” sliding scales for their extended access, but also because of the honesty they encourage. It forces you to consider fair wages, and how little it would matter (to some of us) to pay a little extra and contribute to those who do us a service. Poverty, after all, is in many ways more expensive, and this is what makes it so inescapable. Once you’re in, you can’t get a foothold of savings to boost you back out, so all of your income is thrown away immediately—and usually not in ways that support a healthy economy, anyway.
So what’s to be done? There is no ultimate solution, but a little consumer consciousness would certainly help. And though nothing will eradicate poverty, ever, I’m thankful for the uprising of micro-finance institutions (though their future remains unclear) and fair-wage programs, so perhaps at least we can hope to pull everyone up a bit. I’m not suggesting socialism, but I really like the adage, “Live simply so that others may simply live”—pay what you can and we all get something.
Ya, I had a similar thought process about the bargaining when I was in Cairo. Sometimes I would argue for the equivalent of 50 cents just as a matter of principle and habit.
ReplyDeleteMy strategy towards the end with the taxis was to bargain as low as I could get it, and then at the end of the ride to give the taxi driver a little extra, sometimes even what he originally asked for. It proves your not a pushover and you make the drivers day with some pocket change that you would probably put in a tip jar at home anyway.
Nice observation, Rachel, and you are not alone in weighing the ambivalence. As an Indian male I am not an obvious target for overcharging, but I don't escape it either. My way is, I bargain hard at the start, bring it down to what I think is the acceptable level of payment for the service provided (though not to the point of beggaring the provider), and along the way or at the end, hand out tips. You might have observed, tips are not usual in india, so it's a real bonus. Ok, scratch that - you might be a regular target for 'tips' too, as everybody in India now is aware it is accepted in the US, etc.
ReplyDeleteIf you were able to get into a conversation with some of the 'labor class', you'd be shocked to know how big an impact a small hike in payment could make for them. Once I was told that when I paid an extra 100 rupees, it paid for a visit to the dentist for a brutally painful need; and that visit might have never happened otherwise!
I agree with both of you-- I think tipping may be the way to go, and have implemented this strategy on occasion. But when we stop, and the driver demands Rs 30 extra because we made a u-turn, it makes me indignant all over again. When they are respectful, though, I think a tip is in order.
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